How to Get Your Caravan Winter Ready

Before putting your caravan into hibernation for winter, it is crucial that you winterise it properly to withstand frost, snow, heavy rain and months of inactivity. Failing to correctly and thoroughly prepare your caravan will lead to severe weather damage to both touring and static caravans. It also prevents costly repairs whilst keeping your caravan in excellent condition ready for you to use it in spring. This guide focuses on the essential steps for winterising your caravan and offers advice tailored to both caravan types, starting with draining down.

What Is Drain Down Season?

Draining down your caravan is the most important thing you must do before winterising your caravan - but what is ‘drain down season’? When you drain down your caravan, you remove all the water from the caravan so that pipes don’t have the opportunity to freeze when the temperature inevitably drops over the winter months.

Why Do I Need to Drain Down My Caravan?

Draining your caravan is an essential maintenance task before winter approaches and your caravan is inactive for long periods of time. It is important as water expands when it freezes which can cause your pipes to crack or burst. When the ice melts, your caravan could flood and you will return to find your caravan water damaged. Some pipes are inside the body of the caravan and sit within wall cavities. If you are not planning to visit your caravan during winter then, as you are not there to spot any issues, things could worsen. This will mean that damage may be going untreated and subsequently getting worse whilst you are not there. Therefore, it is important to drain down your caravan, remove all water from waste and freshwater systems as this will make the difference between a caravan that is ready to be used come spring, and one that requires extensive and expensive repairs.

For touring caravans, draining down is only recommended rather than required, but for static caravans insured with us, it is mandatory. You may be liable for repair costs if they have been caused by lack of maintenance and you not taking the time to down drain.

When Should I Drain Down My Caravan?

You should drain down your caravan in the lead up to winter and before the weather gets significantly colder. You must ensure your caravan is fully drained down between 1st October and 14th March. If your static is not drained down and you are not occupying it then, unfortunately, we will not be able to cover loss or damage due to corrosion or wear and tear.

How Do I Drain Down My Caravan?

To drain down your caravan, you will need:

A spanner

Pliers

A screwdriver

Non-toxic, caravan-safe antifreeze (Star Brite is a good option)

Plastic hose/pipe/siphon

Buckets/containers/bowls

Old newspapers

Salt/silica gel

WD40

Follow these steps to drain down your caravan. Whilst it may seem like a lot of steps try not to get overwhelmed as your caravan is designed to make this process as straightforward as possible.

Step 1: Turn off your heater and switch off your caravan’s water supply.

Step 2: Open all your taps. For mixer taps place the lever in the centre so both hot and cold feeds can drain.

Step 3: Open all your drain valves and remove all drainage plugs. Two drain off valves will be located under your bath and shower; four drain off valves will be located beneath your water heater or boiler. A drain off valve looks like this:

Step 4: Flush the toilet, turn on the shower and all taps to let the water drain out. If you can, remove the shower head and connecting pipe to help the water drain away. It is also advised to leave your shower head, and the hose disconnected.

Step 5: If you have an air compressor, blow through the pipes with compressed air to remove any remaining water. Do this by connecting a small compressor to the mains water inlet pipe. If you frequently caravan and need to drain down year after year, it may be worth investing in a small air compressor. If you don’t simply shake your shower head and hose to help drain the water.

Step 6: For touring caravans, remove the cassette from the toilet so you can drain and clean it. Use lots of clean water to flush out the pipes and then drain them. Once you have fully cleaned out and rinsed the cassette, use a spray to coat the cassette seal and blade to avoid corrosion. Using incorrect chemicals may permanently damage the seal so choose something safe for caravans: the Thetford Aqua Rinse spray is a good option. Leave the cassette blade open to prevent sticking.

Step 7: Pour non-toxic antifreeze down the toilet and plugholes to help get rid of residual water in U-bends. You may also want to put a small amount of antifreeze down the bathroom and kitchen plugholes so that any residual water doesn’t have the potential to freeze. Car antifreeze is not appropriate, use one that is caravan-friendly.

Step 8: Remove the water filter or make a note to replace it when you return to your caravan in the spring. If you fit a new one before leaving your caravan for winter, it could get damp or get damaged by frost.

Step 9: If your caravan has an on-board water pump then run it for a few moments to clear it of water. Most good pumps can be dry for a minute or so without an issue. Your external submersible pump can be simply shaken free of water.

Step 10: Your Aquaroll or other portable containers must also be drained and fully dry to prevent mould from growing.

Step 11: After draining down your caravan, replace all the bungs in the drain plugs. Also make sure to plug all water inlets and outlets so that no unwanted smells or bugs creep inside. Leave all taps open so that pressure does not build up.

If as you follow these steps, you discover a frozen pipe, don’t panic. Just double check the water supply is off before slowly thaw the pipe with a hairdryer. To prevent this in the future, you can invest in self-regulating heat tapes which function as an electric blanket for your pipes, in addition to draining down your caravan.

If you have a touring caravan, the most effective way to achieve a full drain down of your caravan will be to empty the system on your last stay and leave all drainage points open whilst driving home. This journey will just make sure any last drops of water will leave the system. It is illegal to discharge water on the motorway so make sure most of the water has drained away before towing home.

Please note you must not drain the central heating valves.

Make sure to follow the guidance of your manufacturer closely by looking in your caravan’s handbook and tailor the above steps in accordance with the caravan you have. If you are still unsure about what to do or if these steps still seem daunting, then book in to see a professional. Some caravan sites offer a drain down service for a fee.

My Park is Open Over Winter, What Should I Do?

If your static caravan park is open over winter, then you must make sure that:

The water has been turned off at the mains stopcock

All taps are left open

Sinks and plugholes are left unobstructed

The full central heating system has been set to operate daily and overnight to avoid frost

Now I’ve Drained Down My Caravan, What Else Should I Do Before Storing It Away?

Once you’ve completed the drain down, it’s essential that your caravan is clean, safe and secure before leaving it for the season. To help you stay organised and avoid missing anything important, we have created a checklist of simple maintenance tasks, divided up by room as well as interior and exterior checks.

Interior

Bathroom

After draining the cassette, clean the water flush tank as it can attract black grime. Use a 100ml bleach to 10 litres of water ratio and put it into your flush tank. Leave the solution for 24 hours before draining the solution into a container and disposing of it.

Fill the tank with clean, fresh water and leave for 5 minutes. Drain this away. Repeat the process until the tank is spotless and no bleach remains. If you have a touring caravan, you could allow the solution to swill around on your drive home and then follow the next steps.

After you’ve done your drain down, block the toilet and cover your plugholes to stop any bugs crawling in. Just make sure you remove these before your turn your water supply back on.

Clean the sink, shower and bathroom floor.

Bedroom

If you have enough room, turn all mattresses onto their edge. If you have fixed beds, leave them in the open position to add air circulation. Also consider using a temporary support to remove the bed weight from gas struts. Remove all pillows and duvets and store them at home. If this isn’t an option for you then place them in the centre of the room to prevent them from becoming damp.

Open all wardrobe doors to give the air a chance to circulate.

Lounge

Vacuum and clean the lounge. Remove all cushions (scatter cushions, back cushions etc) and store them at home, or place them in the centre of the room to again prevent them from becoming damp.

To keep upholstery in the best condition possible cover it with a breathable material like old cotton sheets so that dust does not settle on your cushions or similar. Ideally, you will store your cushions at home.

Leave your curtains and blinds open or take them down if it’s easy to do so. Allowing daylight to enter your caravan will help prevent damp and mould from forming. Blinds with a spring mechanism should be left open anyway as over time the springs stretch and will fail to work as effectively.

Kitchen

Remove all food from your cupboards including unopened items as even sealed packets do not deter rodents. You can leave tinned food but stand them on paper to avoid rust rings forming. Clean all your cupboards; even the smallest of crumbs could attract vermin, mice or rats.

Empty your fridge and freezer and defrost them. Thoroughly clean both your fridge and your freezer using a bicarbonate of soda solution or anti-bacterial liquid to prevent mould growth. Leave your fridge and freezer doors ajar; there should be a catch for this purpose. Make sure the cleaning products you use are caravan safe as normal domestic cleaning products could damage your caravan’s surface or seals.

Clean all surfaces not forgetting your cooker and hobs. Turn off or unplug all appliances and turn off and disconnect the gas and electricity at the mains.

Leave all internal doors and cupboard doors open so air can circulate around your caravan.

Gas

To disconnect your gas, close the gas valves on top of the cylinder or if you have a clip-on type, disconnect the regulators from the cylinders and fit the caps over the end of open pipework. If you plan to store your touring caravan in a unit then check its gas cylinder policy as some will not allow you to store it. It is not recommended to store gas cylinders in a shed or garage, as this can pose a serious risk in the event of a fire. This is because emergency services will not be aware of any gas cylinders, whereas any fire near a caravan typically suggests their presence.

Gas cylinders should be stored at least 2 metres away from drains, cellar openings or buildings. They should be stored away from heat and flammable materials as well as corrosive, toxic or oxidant materials and should be stored in an adequately ventilated location.  When handling, connecting or disconnecting your gas cylinder your engine and all electrical equipment must be switched off.

If cannot remove the gas cylinder, then make sure it is fully turned off and the gas compartment is locked. Remember when storing Butane gas, it begins to freeze at temperatures below 4°C. Propane does not freeze until below -42°C so this is not an issue.

Electricity

To disconnect your caravan’s electricity, start by switching off or disconnecting the battery. If possible, remove the battery and take it home with you so you can periodically charge it. Be aware that a battery should not be left uncharged for more than six weeks. Trickle charge or charge your battery as recommended by your battery’s manufacturer to make sure your battery stays in good condition over winter. If your battery needs to remain connected to power a security system, then more frequent charging will be necessary. In this case, you’ll either need to charge on a site or use a 30w (or larger) solar panel.

If you are leaving the battery unit in your caravan, you must make sure it's isolated from all 12V equipment. You can either use the isolation switch or disconnect it entirely. Alternatively, turn off all electrical items and remove all plugs from sockets.

Multi-pin plug sockets should be protected from the weather but not fully sealed as this can encourage condensation. Some moisture repellent sprays like WD-40 can damage plastic so apply petroleum jelly instead.

During winter, connect your caravan to a 230V electricity source to periodically run the heating system. This not only helps maintain the battery but also prevents the build-up of mildew and damp.

Wherever you store your battery, make sure the terminals are kept clean and apply a layer of petroleum jelly to prevent corrosion.

General Interior Maintenance

Lightly coat door hinges with a thin oil or WD-40 to protect them from rust. Avoid contacting the actual door as oil and WD-40 can attract dirt.

Any devices with batteries such as alarm clocks or radios should have their batteries removed as alkaline batteries can corrode over time.

In general, you need to be giving your caravan a really deep and thorough clean before packing up for winter. Vacuuming and washing everything is a great way of making sure you don’t overlook any items in cupboards or spaces you don’t often check. You should facilitate good air flow inside your caravan by keeping all doors, cabinets and cupboards open. This will prevent damp and any musty smell from developing.

Place bowls or baking trays of salt around the caravan. The salt will draw moisture out of the air, helping prevent your caravan from becoming damp, mouldy or mildewy. For more tips on preventing and treating caravan damp, read our article here.

Before locking up, open all your windows to let the cool air inside breathe through your caravan. Don’t forget to check all skylights and windows are fully closed and locked before leaving. If you leave air vents open, you will aid air circulation even more as fresh air will be let in.

If you can, carry out periodic inspections of your caravan over winter to check for issues of damp and see how well it’s holding up against frost. This is also a chance to get some air circulating again by opening some windows. Blasting some warm air can also be really effective.

External

Take a walk around the outside of your caravan and check or prepare the following things. We have split this into touring and static as well as things you must look for and prepare for both caravan styles.

Bodywork

Clean and polish the body work of your caravan. When it comes to washing your caravan, don’t use a pressure washer. Pressure washers are powerful, and the direct spray can get under the trim and cause damage to the overall bodywork as well as seals.

Doing this will not only mean your caravan will be easier to keep looking sparkly and shiny in spring, but it also protects your caravan against algae, mould, fungi, airborne pollutants, acid rain and bird lime. Once you have cleaned your caravan, you will also be able to inspect the bodywork for any damage.

For further bodywork protection, use a breathable cover or an overwintering coating.

Cladding

Take a close look at your cladding to see if it’s wearing thin. If it is, and it has a protective coating, then it is time to recoat. You will likely need to get someone to do this for you as doing it yourself could result in a caravan that’s no longer road legal.

Joins

Look for any loose joints and gaps as this is where rainwater could work its way inside the walls and cause the start of damp problems. If you discover any loose joints or general gaps, then make sure they are fixed, draught proof and watertight before packing up for winter.

Guttering

For static caravans with gutters you should check, clear and clean them. Leaving the gutter clogged with leaves and debris means water could overflow and run down the windows and walls of your caravan. Clear them so water can flow freely.

Foliage

If your static caravan is situated near foliage, spend some time cutting it back. Although it won’t grow much over winter having additional space for air to flow under your caravan will certainly help.

Pipes

Check the lagging. If they don’t look good, then replace them. Doing an effective drain down will help with fundamental freezing issues but good lagging is also beneficial.

Outdoor Furniture

Clean, dry and pack away all your outdoor furniture.

If you have a touring caravan, clean, wash and dry your awning before storing it. Make sure it is fully dry before packing it away or mould could start to grow.

If possible, store all outdoor furniture and awning inside your home rather than in your caravan.

Tyres

If you are storing your touring caravan in one place over winter then be aware that it can put a lot of stress of your caravan’s tyres potentially causing them to warp, become damaged or crack. To reduce the stress on your caravan’s tyres, rotate your wheels every six to eight weeks to evenly distribute the wear. You could also occasionally move the caravan so that different parts of the tyre are taking the strain.

Another option is increasing your tyre pressure, just don’t forget to drop the pressure down before heading back out onto the road.

When storing your caravan, shield the tyres from sunlight to prevent degradation of rubber. Avoid using plastic bags that seal the wheel and bearing as this could cause condensation. Instead, cover the wheels with a natural material like hessian.

Chassis and Running Gear

If you have been on the road when it’s been icy then it will be worth washing and brushing down the chassis to clean it of corrosive road salt.

When storing your touring caravan, it’s ideal to leave the handbrake off but only do this if it’s safe to do so. This will prevent the handbrake from seizing up. Stabilise your caravan by lowering all the corner steadies and, if necessary, use wheel chocks to secure the caravan in place.

To protect the caravan’s running gear against cold weather, lubricate hinges and other mechanical components such as the corner steadies’ rotating screws and the spare wheel carrier.

Car-to-Caravan Connectors

Check you 13-pin or 12N and 12S (7 pin) car-to-caravan connectors for any signs of wear and damage. The points of electrical contact should be clean and wiped over with petroleum jelly. Alternatively, you could spray them with a water dispersant such as WD-40.

Security

The final step before leaving your caravan for winter is ensuring its security! As you won’t be using your caravan for a few months, it is imperative that you take the time to lock and tightly seal all doors and windows. Consider installing safety features such as motion-sensor lights, surveillance cameras or alarm systems if your caravan does not already have them. Also check your hitch locks and wheel clamps are working effectively. Taking these precautions will allow you to feel confident that your caravan is safe and secure over the winter.

Final Thoughts

Taking the time to complete all these checks in addition to draining down your caravan will mean your caravan is much more pleasant to return to in spring. Draining water systems and inspecting for any necessary repairs during winterisation not only prevents damage but also saves you from losing part of the next season waiting for repairs. Garages are often quieter in the winter, so addressing these tasks now can be more convenient and efficient.

Properly preparing your caravan for winter doesn’t just save you money on repairs; it also helps ensure that you can make the most of next year's season without delays. When you return in the spring, allow time to turn systems back on and re-organise the interior.

We understand that even with the best preparation, unforeseen damage from storms or floods as well as other issues such as theft, are always risks. Both our touring and static caravan insurance provide peace of mind and will protect your caravan from costly repairs or replacements you may need to make before its ready to use when the warmer months return.